Amalfi Coast Honeymoon, Part 1: Positano | Perchance to Cook, www.perchancetocook.com

An Unforgettable Positano Honeymoon: Your Ultimate Amalfi Coast Travel Guide (Part 1)

Ah, the Amalfi Coast! A name that conjures images of vibrant cliffside villages, sparkling turquoise waters, and the irresistible scent of lemon groves. Our honeymoon, a truly long-awaited journey, led us to this breathtaking Italian paradise. We meticulously planned our romantic escape into three distinct, enchanting stops along the coast: three days immersed in the vibrant charm of Positano, followed by three days in the serene elegance of Ravello, and finally, two days exploring the glamorous island of Capri. This extensive guide is Part 1 of our extraordinary Amalfi Coast adventure, starting with our beloved Positano – a town that captured our hearts with its dramatic beauty, winding pathways, exquisite fresh cuisine, and absolutely fantastic shopping opportunities. It’s a place where romance blossoms around every corner, and every vista is a postcard waiting to be sent.

Months of dedicated research went into curating this dream trip. I confess, I can spend countless hours poring over travel blogs and guides without a moment’s notice, but every minute was unequivocally worth it. I’m thrilled to share our personal experiences, insider tips, and heartfelt recommendations, ensuring your own Positano honeymoon or visit is as magical as ours.

Choosing Our Dream Honeymoon Destination: The Allure of the Amalfi Coast

As the title of this guide suggests, my husband and I embarked on our honeymoon to the magnificent Amalfi Coast. Both of us had never had the pleasure of visiting this iconic region before, and we were eager for a destination that would be a fresh discovery for both of us. Our primary desires for this post-wedding escape were simple: relaxation, abundant sunshine, and indulging in genuinely spectacular food. After the whirlwind of wedding preparations and 10 months spent living across continents, we yearned for a serene yet exciting retreat.

Deciding on the perfect honeymoon spot was, surprisingly, a lengthy process. While I always envisioned getting married in Ireland, the ‘after party’ destination remained a delightful mystery. Given our wedding location, a European honeymoon seemed the most practical and appealing choice. As I mused over the ideal setting to celebrate our new life together, visions of exquisite Italian food, fine wine, creamy gelato, and sun-drenched landscapes increasingly filled my thoughts. The sheer romance and culinary heritage of Italy beckoned us.

Ah, Italian wine – truly a taste of heaven!

Our shared love for Italy began during our graduate school days when we both studied abroad (he in Germany, I in France). We had previously explored Rome and Tuscany together, falling deeply in love with the country and, of course, its incredible cuisine. So, Italy naturally emerged as a front-runner for our honeymoon. However, well-meaning friends and family suggested we consider something “more exotic,” something we might never do otherwise for such a special occasion. While their advice came from a good place, it undeniably threw a wrench into my planning! I spent considerable time pondering far-flung destinations like Fiji, but none truly resonated with our vision for a romantic and effortlessly enjoyable honeymoon.

It was during one final internet search for Italian honeymoon destinations that the majestic Amalfi Coast finally “popped up.” Of course! I had heard whispers of its unparalleled beauty and had always dreamt of visiting. Initially, the reputation for being an exorbitantly expensive destination gave me pause. However, further research revealed a spectrum of accommodation options, from charming B&Bs to luxurious hotels, making an Amalfi Coast honeymoon accessible across various budgets. This discovery sealed the deal for us – we were sold on the idea of a romantic Italian getaway.

The next challenge was selecting which towns to call home during our stay. We ultimately decided on a multi-stop itinerary encompassing Positano, Ravello, and Capri, a choice we were incredibly pleased with. Though, if we were to re-plan, we might opt for a longer stay in Positano and Ravello, perhaps enjoying Capri as a day trip. More insights on that will follow in a future post!

We spent three idyllic days in Positano, and truly fell in love with this captivating town. We highly recommend making Positano your base over the town of Amalfi itself. We found Positano to be wonderfully less crowded, offering a more authentic and serene atmosphere while still boasting incredible shopping and delightful opportunities for leisurely strolls. Its unique blend of sophistication and local charm makes it, in our opinion, a superior choice for an immersive Amalfi Coast experience, with the option of a day trip to explore Amalfi town if desired.

Planning Your Positano Honeymoon: Key Considerations

Optimal Timing for Your Positano Visit

When planning your trip to Positano, my foremost recommendation revolves around timing! The Amalfi Coast, surprisingly to many first-time visitors, operates on a seasonal schedule.

The region is effectively “closed” for approximately six months of the year. While you can certainly visit, many hotels, restaurants, and even some local services like taxi drivers pause operations during the off-season. We had an insightful conversation with a taxi driver who explained that they earn their annual income within a six-month window, then enjoy a well-deserved break. A hotel owner echoed this sentiment, highlighting the seasonal nature of local businesses.
The heart of summer, particularly July and August, sees the Amalfi Coast become incredibly crowded. Buses filled with hundreds of tourists descend upon the picturesque towns, transforming the charming, narrow streets into bustling thoroughfares. This can detract from the serene and intimate experience many seek.
Our visit at the end of May and early June proved to be absolutely perfect. This period offers beautiful, pleasant weather – warm enough for beach activities and boat trips, yet precedes the peak summer crowds. You can enjoy the stunning scenery and vibrant atmosphere without feeling overwhelmed, striking an ideal balance for a romantic honeymoon.

Getting to Positano: Transportation Guide

Understanding how to navigate your way to the Amalfi Coast is crucial for a smooth start to your Positano honeymoon. Most international travelers will likely fly into Naples International Airport (NAP). From there, Positano is still about an hour and a half drive. Here are the primary modes of transportation to consider for your journey to Positano:

Public Buses: Public buses offer an economical way to travel from Naples to Positano and between towns along the Amalfi Coast. While they are budget-friendly, we opted not to use them due to reports of them being frequently overcrowded and occasionally running off schedule. For those on a tight budget, more information on bus schedules can be found here.
Car Rental: Renting a car directly from the airport provides maximum flexibility, as some friends of ours happily attested. However, we decided against it due to the challenging nature of the winding, cliffside roads and the additional expense of parking in town and at hotels. Navigating these narrow, often busy, roads requires confidence and can be stressful for unfamiliar drivers.
Private Taxi/Car Service: For a hassle-free and comfortable transfer, a pre-booked taxi or private car service from Naples airport to your hotel in Positano is highly recommended. We chose Positano Taxi, paying 95 euros for a 1.5-hour journey, and it was absolutely worth every penny. Our car was spotless, spacious, and air-conditioned, and our driver, Giuseppe, offered a delightful commentary, sharing local insights, historical facts, and excellent restaurant and activity recommendations throughout the drive. If we return, we would definitely use a taxi or ferry again.
Ferry: Taking a ferry from the Naples port offers a scenic and enjoyable alternative. You’ll need a quick taxi ride from the airport to the port. During the summer months, numerous ferry times are available. You can find detailed information on services like Naples Bay Ferry or OkFerry. We utilized ferries for inter-town travel and our return journey to the airport, finding tickets to range from 9-29 euros – a wonderful way to experience the coastal views.

Where to Stay in Positano: Finding Your Perfect Accommodation

Positano, like the entire Amalfi Coast, caters to a wide spectrum of budgets when it comes to accommodation. From charming, reasonably priced B&Bs to extravagant luxury resorts offering exclusive honeymoon packages, there’s truly something for everyone. This flexibility allows you to tailor your stay to your financial comfort. For our Positano experience, we decided to indulge a little, selecting it as our “splurge” hotel during our honeymoon. We secured a magnificent sea-view room (Room #5) at the historic Hotel Palazzo Murat Positano.

Hotel Palazzo Murat proved to be the quintessential honeymoon haven for us, excelling in countless ways:

Steeped in history, Hotel Palazzo Murat was originally built by Napoleon’s brother-in-law, and its rich heritage is palpable in every architectural detail. Its central location places you right in the bustling heart of Positano, offering easy access to everything, complemented by truly amazing views.
Upon informing the hotel it was our honeymoon, we were greeted with a thoughtful welcome of complimentary champagne and fresh fruit in our room, a delightful touch that enhanced the celebratory atmosphere.
A standout amenity was the complimentary daily boat rides offered to guests. What better way to admire the spectacular Amalfi Coastline than from the sparkling blue waters? This unique offering provided unparalleled perspectives of the dramatic cliffs and pastel-hued houses.
The hotel boasts a prestigious Michelin-star restaurant, a refreshing swimming pool, and well-maintained tennis courts, ensuring ample leisure activities. Furthermore, it’s conveniently located just a five-minute stroll from the main beach.
The vistas from our sea-view room were nothing short of breathtaking, providing a constant, mesmerizing backdrop to our romantic getaway.

The staff at Palazzo Murat were genuinely the most cheerful, helpful, and accommodating individuals we’ve ever encountered. They effortlessly handled all our restaurant reservations and transportation arrangements (many hillside restaurants offer complimentary shuttle services), making dining out a breeze. They also assisted with booking additional boat excursions and provided excellent shopping recommendations.
Finally, the complimentary breakfast buffet, included with our stay, was truly outstanding – arguably the best we experienced anywhere in Italy, featuring an impressive spread of local delicacies and international favorites.

Culinary Delights: Best Restaurants & Must-Try Food in Positano

As I previously mentioned, one of the primary reasons we chose Italy for our honeymoon was to fully immerse ourselves in its world-renowned culinary scene. There is truly nothing that compares to the taste of fresh, creamy burrata, perfectly homemade gnocchi, authentic oven-fired pizza, or the simplest yet most flavorful tomato basil pasta straight from Italy. The joy of savoring these incredible dishes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, day after day, was an absolute highlight of our trip.

A striking feature we immediately noticed in Positano was the sheer abundance of lemon trees, seemingly growing everywhere! The bright, vibrant yellow of the lemons added an extra splash of cheer and color to the already picturesque scenery, making every view even more delightful. Beyond their aesthetic appeal, these ubiquitous lemons meant an exciting array of lemon-inspired drinks and foods were readily available throughout the region.

Naturally, we indulged in the local limoncello, a sweet and tangy lemon liqueur that is a signature of the Amalfi Coast. But our culinary quest also included the highly anticipated Delizia al Limone. I had read about this regional lemon cake prior to our honeymoon and had emphatically written “TRY THE DELIZIA AL LIMONE” in capital letters on our itinerary – it was a top priority! What I discovered was a light, spongey lemon cake generously covered in a delicate whipped lemon frosting. As its name suggests, it truly is a “delight” – a perfect balance of sweet and tart, and an absolute must-try for any visitor. I’m determined to recreate a Paleo version of this someday!

Dining Experiences in Positano

While I initially attempted to make restaurant reservations in advance, I quickly found this to be almost impossible from abroad. Thankfully, it seems to be a common custom in Positano for hotels to handle restaurant bookings for their guests. This proved incredibly convenient, allowing us to dine at every place on our wish list! (Be aware that popular spots might require a day or two’s wait, so if there’s a particular restaurant you absolutely must experience, try to secure a reservation as early as possible after arrival).

Da Vincenzo: A Taste of Positano with a View

Our very first lunch in Positano was at Da Vincenzo, a restaurant highly recommended by our hotel. It offered stunning panoramic views of the sea and the iconic Positano town, setting a truly romantic scene. We started with an absolutely divine “fried” appetizer selection featuring a crispy fried rice ball, a delicate fried zucchini flower, and a savory fried ravioli – a dish so good, I wished I could eat it every single day! For my main course, I savored a delightful tomato mozzarella pasta generously topped with fresh, homemade burrata. There are simply no words to adequately describe its deliciousness. My husband enjoyed a flavorful caramelized onion beef ragu, which, judging by how quickly it disappeared, was equally superb.

Da Adolfo: A Secluded Beachside Culinary Journey

Our next memorable lunch brought us to Da Adolfo, a charming, rustic restaurant perched directly on the ocean. Its unique appeal lies in its exclusivity – it’s only accessible by boat. Guests can either take a water taxi or utilize the restaurant’s complimentary ferry service, which departs from a specific dock in Positano. Having seen this gem featured on numerous travel blogs, I knew it was a must-visit for our honeymoon.

At Da Adolfo, we indulged in a feast of fresh, local flavors. Our selections included mozzarella grilled on fragrant lemon leaves, succulent mussels bathed in a rich marinara sauce, a delightful fresh mozzarella and tomato spaghetti, and a uniquely flavorful green pepper almond pesto spaghetti. Every dish was incredibly fresh and bursting with authentic taste. The unique flavors, coupled with the unparalleled experience of dining literally at the water’s edge, made it an unforgettable treat. The mussels, in particular, were some of the freshest I have ever tasted in my life.

Many visitors turn their visit to Da Adolfo into an all-day affair, renting sun loungers by the restaurant, basking in the sun, and enjoying refreshing drinks. These chairs typically cost around 8 euros to reserve and must be booked in advance. We, however, skipped this option as it was a rather rainy day, and we had plans for a boat ride later. Despite the weather, the boat trip was still an incredible experience!

Ristorante Da Constantino: Authentic Italian Flavors with Breathtaking Views

Our second evening in Positano culminated in a truly wonderful dinner at Ristorante Da Constantino. Without a doubt, this was the highlight of our Italian dining experiences in Positano. Serving authentic, family-made Italian food, it was so exceptional that my husband and I regretted not dining there a second time during our stay! We savored incredibly delicious homemade gnocchi bathed in a rich tomato sauce, perfectly cooked penne with tomato sauce, a classic mozzarella pizza, and an unforgettable homemade tiramisu. It was, quite simply, the perfect meal, embodying the very essence of the authentic Italian cuisine we had hoped to enjoy on our honeymoon.

Adding to its allure, Da Constantino is nestled high in the hills of Positano, offering absolutely spectacular panoramic views of the town and coastline below. The restaurant thoughtfully provides a courtesy shuttle service, making the journey to and from this elevated culinary haven incredibly convenient and stress-free.

Ristorante Saraceno d’Oro: A Rewarding Hike to a Hidden Gem

On our third day, we ventured for lunch to Ristorante Saraceno d’Oro. While reaching it requires a delightful hike up a hill, the journey itself is part of the charm – you’ll discover many cool, hidden gems along the winding pathways. Moreover, the rewarding culinary experience at the top, coupled with the satisfaction of a little exercise, made it entirely worthwhile. I must commend their spaghetti with meat sauce; it was genuinely one of the best I have ever tasted! The sausage pizza was equally delicious. We dined al fresco, surrounded by lush trees and fragrant lemons, which imbued the entire experience with a peaceful and distinctly Mediterranean ambiance. As a special treat, we each enjoyed mini bottles of Champagne, just because we could!

La Tagliata: A Unique Family-Style Feast in the Clouds

Our final dinner in Positano was at La Tagliata, a truly unique family-style restaurant with no set menu. Instead, you pay a fixed price per person for an abundant multi-course meal, complete with unlimited wine – yes, you heard that right, unlimited wine! While the food itself wasn’t my absolute favorite of the trip, the overall experience was undeniably worth it. The restaurant’s location, perched incredibly high in the hills, offers spectacular, almost cloud-level views, making you feel as though you’re dining in an Italian treehouse with a bird’s-eye perspective of the entire coast.

A word of caution: do not fill up too quickly, as the sheer quantity of food is staggering! We thoroughly enjoyed sampling a vast array of different cheese, vegetable, and meat dishes, but by the end, I simply couldn’t eat another bite. The meal concludes with a lively musical performance, where instruments are passed around, and the entire staff joins in song, creating a wonderfully festive and memorable atmosphere. It was quite the spectacle!

Le Sirenuse Champagne Bar: A Drink with the Best View

Beyond full meals, I highly recommend enjoying a refreshing drink at the Champagne Bar at Le Sirenuse. Why? It undeniably offers one of the most magnificent views for a drink in all of Positano, overlooking the iconic colorful cliffside. Le Sirenuse itself is a historic, classic, and utterly magnificent hotel – a true institution in Positano. For those who, like us, might not be able to splurge on a stay here, many locals and experienced travelers suggest simply stopping for a drink to soak in the ambiance and unparalleled views, which is an excellent suggestion! In fact, most of the super fancy hotels in the area boast incredible restaurants and bars; seizing the opportunity to enjoy a drink or a meal there allows you to experience their grandeur without the full cost of a stay.

Retail Therapy: Best Shopping in Positano

Of all the charming towns we explored on the Amalfi Coast, Positano unequivocally offered the most captivating and rewarding shopping experience. Seriously, my husband and I couldn’t get enough of the local boutiques! The town is a treasure trove of quaint, independent shops, each offering unique and stylish finds. I managed to acquire some fantastic sunglasses (having forgotten mine at home, a perfect excuse!), while my husband found some stylish swimsuits, a beautiful signet ring, and a pair of exquisite Italian shoes.

Custom-Made Sandals: A Positano Souvenir

A quintessential Positano shopping experience, and one you absolutely must partake in, is getting a pair of custom-made sandals! The town is dotted with workshops where skilled artisans craft bespoke leather sandals right before your eyes. I was particularly enamored with the selection and craftsmanship at La Botteguccia Positano, where I ended up purchasing two beautiful pairs. My husband, after a bit of exploration off the main tourist paths, even discovered a hidden gem that specialized in custom sandals for men as well.

Amalfi Coast Ceramics & Unique Antique Finds

The Amalfi Coast is also renowned for its exquisite, vibrantly colored ceramics. While we certainly explored many ceramic shops in Positano, we ultimately found better deals and a wider selection in Ravello, a topic I’ll delve into in my next post. Nonetheless, the artisanal craftsmanship is evident everywhere.

One of my most memorable shopping experiences in Positano occurred at a truly unique antique shop. Tucked away up a side street, it was a hidden gem. Some of its treasures spilled out onto the street, while others were crammed into a tiny, atmospheric shop. An elderly man, who possessed an uncanny ability to seemingly peer into our very souls, guided us in selecting a few special pieces. His character and charm made the visit truly unforgettable.

Do you see that large head in the left corner of the photo, the one that looks a bit pained? We ended up purchasing that! I also wanted to buy two magnificent lion door stoppers, but the old man surprisingly refused to sell them to us! He genuinely declined the sale, explaining they would be too heavy for us to carry and prohibitively expensive to ship to the USA. It was a hilarious interaction, though now, looking back at the photo, I almost wish I had insisted on buying them.

Exploring Positano from the Sea: Indispensable Boat Rides

If I were to offer one final, absolutely indispensable recommendation for visiting Positano, it would be to experience the stunning coastline from the water. Whether you choose to rent a small boat, charter a private tour, or simply utilize a ferry for inter-town transportation, seeing the Amalfi Coast by boat is an essential part of the experience. It offers a unique and breathtaking perspective, allowing you to truly appreciate the dramatic cliffs, hidden coves, and vibrant villages as they were meant to be seen.

When I first considered renting a boat, my initial thought was that it would be overly complicated or expensive. However, I quickly discovered that there are numerous convenient and surprisingly affordable ways to arrange boat trips in Positano. As mentioned, some hotels, like ours, even offer complimentary boat rides as part of their guest experience. Beyond that, you’ll find readily available boat taxis and a variety of private companies offering guided tours or boat rentals. The prices proved to be far more reasonable than we had initially anticipated, making this incredible experience accessible to many.

My husband, ever the adventurer, made it his mission to jump off every possible cliff during our boat excursion! (Though, I don’t think the couple sunbathing topless next to him were thrilled when he chose their rock as his diving board – he genuinely didn’t realize until he was up there, a truly comical moment in hindsight!)

We embarked on a fantastic four-hour boat tour that took us well past Amalfi town. On our return journey, we unexpectedly found ourselves caught in a storm, which was a mix of humorous and slightly uncomfortable – getting drenched in icy rain wasn’t quite what we planned! But upon our return to Positano, the town magically transformed into this enchanting scene:

Even in the rain, Positano exudes an undeniable romantic charm.

Final Thoughts on Our Positano Honeymoon

As you can undoubtedly tell, our hearts were completely captured by Positano. We found it to be an incredibly romantic destination, perfectly blending the famed “glamour” of the Amalfi Coast with a wonderfully personable and welcoming atmosphere. During my initial research, I had encountered complaints about the numerous hills and the difficulty of getting around. However, my husband and I were not bothered by this in the slightest. In fact, we thoroughly enjoyed the invigorating walks and the satisfying feeling of getting a bit of a workout in between indulging in delicious pizzas and creamy gelato. It’s worth noting, however, that the steep inclines and extensive walking could pose a challenge for those with mobility issues or a strong aversion to uphill climbs.

Just thinking about our time there makes me long to return! Positano delivered an unforgettable beginning to our honeymoon adventure. Stay tuned for Part 2 of our Amalfi Coast journey, where I’ll share all the details and charm of our stay in the equally captivating town of Ravello.